The 1994 Muscat Reserve Personnelle is an off-dry, fragrant wine with good crisp fruit, as well as an engaging, immensely charming personality. The Muscats of Alsace are some of the most underrated white wines of the world. Their only downside is that they need to be drunk within 2-3 years of the vintage because of their intense perfume's fragility. According to Laurence Faller, this is the ideal wine to drink with asparagus, a combination I intend to try this spring. There has been no shortage of great vintages for Domaine Weinbach. 1989 and 1990 are the finest recent vintages prior to 1994, and this estate turned out extremely strong 1992s and 1993s. The 1994s offer a dazzling combination of power, high extraction, and vibrant, well-integrated acidity, making them strikingly intense, beautifully structured wines. This domaine consistently has conservative crop yields. For example, in 1994 the French government permitted 80 hectoliters per hectare, but Domaine Weinbach averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare. The estate's harvest began on September 20th and finished on November 18th. Kudos to the Fallers, who once again have turned out exquisite wines.The 1994 wines reviewed in this issue were tasted in December, 1995.Domaine Weinbach is imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc. (Robert Haas Selections), Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139
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