A new label for D’Auvenay, the 2010 Auxey-Duresses La Macabree is at first quite subtle, but then opens up beautifully with time in the glass. This powerful, broad-shouldered wine is endowed with considerable energy. The aromas and flavors are ample and expansive throughout. Sweet floral, honeyed notes give the wine much of its breadth and flashiness, especially on the deep, resonant finish. This is the first vintage Lalou Bize-Leroy has listed the Macabree lieu-dit on what was previously her straight Auxey-Duresses bottling. In 2010, the Macabree is magnificent. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.
Do you want the good news or the bad news? Lalou Bize-Leroy’s 2010s at Domaine D’Auvenay – both white and red – are off the charts. That is the good news. The bad news is that the wines won’t be released for at least a few more years. Aging white Burgundy these days requires a strong stomach but D’Auvenay is one of the few domaines where the wines actually need a few years in bottle to show well. With time, the D’Auvenay whites often blossom into extraordinary wines with few peers anywhere in the world. I also include notes on the 2010 reds, which are equally, if not more, impressive than the whites. I find the D’Auvenay 2010 reds just a bit more refined than Bize-Leroy’s 2010 reds at Domaine Leroy. In any event, these remain some of the most riveting wines on the planet. The only problem is finding them.
Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040
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