Cameron Hughes bottles dozens of wines from California growers, and now he’s expanded to include Rioja and Campo de Borja in Spain along with South Africa. This wine is made in the full-throttled, modern style. There’s copious oak, toast and darkness on the bouquet, and then full-bodied black plum, raspberry and spice flavors. Quite a bulky, oaky style, but also one endowed with chocolate, nuttiness and depth.——M.S.(6/1/2009)—— 88
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