Stephen Pannell’s family founded Moss Wood in Western Australia back in 1967, and he’s a former chief red winemaker at BRL Hardy. So it’s no surprise that his Shiraz is excellent, in a firmly structured, restrained style. Mixed berry fruit is accented by hints of spice and chocolate in this wine that shows more textural interest than overall volume. Best from 2009.——W.E.(11/15/2007)—— 90