Readers who want to discover the unique qualities of Aglianico without spending a fortune should check out Antonio Caggiano’s 2004 Aglianico dell’ Irpinia Tari. This sumptuous, richly-textured red is packed with over-ripe jammy fruit, licorice, tar and minerals. It is a tasty wine to drink now and over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014.Proprietor Antonio Caggiano makes his wines in an accessible, refined style.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411