The 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese A.P. #18 smells alluringly of white peach, lily, and vanilla and offers a creamy, nutty, enveloping palate of ripe white peach, vanilla, juicy lime and pink grapefruit citrus, and liquid stone. This is one of those periodic Selbach wines that sets the record straight: this neighbor to the better-known Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a great vineyard in its own right and capable, as in this instance, of delivering intricate interplay of fruit and mineral, gravity defying weightlessness with fullness, and superb ageability. The elegant, laid-back, and effortlessly long finish reprises flowers, vanilla, pit fruits, citrus, and slate, along with low toned nut oils, honey, and herbs. If the finishing impression is still somehow restrained, that’s simply an accurate reflection of the fact that this fascinating and gorgeous wine – which needless to say represents an extraordinary value - will only become more so over the next two decades. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300