The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Lewis Vineyard is purple in color with a fragrant bouquet of lavender, cigar box, Asian spices, herbs, and black currant. It has plenty of stuffing and concentration but a slightly bitter edge emerges on the palate. I’d like to retaste it in a year to see if this is a representative bottle. www.dunhamcellars.com

No one does a better job showcasing fruit from the Lewis Vineyard than Eric Dunham. This pure and powerful Cabernet fairly explodes from the glass with ripe, round, plummy fruit. Silky tannins take over from there, with subtle layers of herb, olive and earth adding depth and texture.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 93