The 2004 Pinot Noir “Eileen Vineyard” comes from the youngest vines (and highest elevation) on the estate, the 8th leaf in this vintage. Dark-ruby in color, it offers a pleasant perfume of toasty red fruits with a touch of earthiness in the backdrop. This leads to a firm wine with layered fruit and moderate tannin. Its appeal is more to the intellect than to the emotions. Tel. (503) 375-3068; www.cristomwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Gris (81), 2006 Pinot Gris Estate (88), 2005 Viognier Estate (90), 2004 Pinot Noir “Mt. Jefferson” (83), 2003 Syrah Estate (90), 2004 Syrah Estate (92+)

In 2004 the Eileen bottling seems to have retained a bit more freshness and sweetness to the fruit, but despite that it carries a dominant impression of rough, chalky tannins and earth. It’s chewy, tannic and a bit rough in the finish. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 86