Here we go again: like last year’s rendition (or this year’s Kaiserberg) the Prager 2007 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin is so ester-rich it is almost spiritous in intensity, and marries a glossy, glycerin-rich palate of pit fruits, bitter blue and black fruits, pungent citrus oil, and bright lime citricity. In addition, there is a carnal, meaty, musky, saline and savory streak here that puts me in mind of red Burgundy or Jurancon. This wine is practically spooky, and should be a thrill to follow for at least 4-5 years, though whether it will achieve elegance and refinement I doubt. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700