The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin represents another high-toned, ester-rich, intense expression of Riesling. Bitter-edged black currant, elderberry, citrus zest, pepper, and mineral pungency combine for an impressive palate and downright aggressive finish. Again, what will become of this when it settles down, or ought one make the best of it over the next several years, with appropriately intense cuisine? Certainly it will be a fascinating wine to follow. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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