More primary is the 2006 M (900 cases, again made from100% Cabernet Sauvignon). It avoids the rustic, somewhat astringent tannins that some Cabernets from Napa have in this vintage. This is a stronger effort in 2006 than was 2005. Dark, slightly more saturated, youthful plum/ruby/purple, with notes of licorice, scorched earth, and burning embers, the wine is structured, but displays terrific fruit intensity, medium to full body, and lots of upside potential. This is a young wine that I would cellar for 2-3 years and drink over the following 25 years. Former Mondavi CEO Michael Mondavi has his own boutique operation on Atlas Peak. It includes 17 acres planted on a hillside elevation of approximately 1,600 feet in volcanic white tufa. This site was once used as part of the blend for Opus One, but it is owned by Mondavi, who produces between 700 and 1,000 cases. This is, for the most part, a European, Bordeaux-styled wine, with more structure and firmness than many Napa Cabernets display in their youth.Tel. (707) 256-2759

Made from the winery’s little vineyard on Atlas Peak, this 100% Cabernet needs time to come around. It doesn’t show the voluptuous approachability of the 2005 or the 2007, which will be released next year. It’s fairly acidic and tannic. But there’s a luscious core of blackberries and black currants. Try after 2012; it might be a very long-lived wine. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 90