Mount Eden’s estate Chardonnay typically starts out life as a tight, nervous wine. It’s marked by acidity and minerals, and you don’t want to drink it too cold. The ’04 is a lovely young wine, rich and dramatically complex, with layers of pineapples, Meyer lemons, limes, wet stone, creamy yeast and smoky oak, like an important Chablis. Brilliant now, it should develop additional bottle nuances over the next six years.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 93
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