The 2007 Chardonnay saw 100% malolactic, and spent eight months in wood, but the oak is barely noticeable. Made in a French Chablis-like style, it is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, and notes of white currants, citrus, and lemon oil. A pleasant, restrained, understated Chardonnay, it should provide pleasure over the next 1-2 years. Matanzas Creek Winery remains a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the early 1990s. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

A lovely Chardonnay that’s marked by a steely minerality that braces and provides structure to the pineapple, lemondrop, honey and buttered toast flavors. Feels really elegant and creamy in the mouth. Easy to find, with nearly 13,000 cases produced, and a good price for the quality.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92