White peach and yellow plum along with a maritime sense of salinity and alkalinity emerge on the nose of Gies-Duppel’s Muschelkalk-based 2009 Birkweiler Mandelberg Riesling trocken and on the palate this 13.2% alcohol Riesling offers an expansive and silken-textured display of pit fruits tinged with the bitterness of their pits as well as the aforementioned oceanic mingling of minerals and Latakia tobacco-like smokiness. Amplitude and alcohol do not translate to any roughness, heat, or heaviness in this wine’s formidably persistent and saliva-stimulating finish. I would anticipate this proving fascinatingly versatile over the next 5-7 years. Volker Gies – for more about whose vineyards and methods consult my coverage in issue 185 –continues to display impressive talent and is happily receiving increasing recognition inside Germany. Hopefully wider U.S. distribution of this estate’s wines will follow. Like other of the best 2009 vintage Rieslings from Gies’s corner of the southern Pfalz, his harbor highly efficacious acidity and high energy of a sort that can by no means be taken for granted – not even on the Mosel! – in this vintage (and indeed, is almost entirely absent in the Rieslings from further south in Alsace). I have been quite keen on Gies’s Pinot Blancs, but found them (as well as his Pinot Gris) – despite ample ripeness – marginally disappointing from 2009, a circumstance familiar from this vintage in neighboring Alsace.Importer: Tartaglione Fine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 216-3356