Foxen’s 2010 Pinot Noir La Encantada Vineyard, from a site in the Santa Rita Hills, is a bigger, bolder wine than the Julia’s. It possesses gorgeous depth and richness, but the tannins aren’t as refined as I had hoped. The French oak barrels (60% new) mark the wine to a considerable degree. Hints of tar, smoke and licorice add complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. I always look forward to tasting the Foxen wines, as they are loaded with class and personality across the board. The Chardonnays and the Pinots are the highlights among this set of new releases, while the 2010 Syrahs can’t quite match the superb 2009s. The 2010 Pinots in particular are well worth the effort of tracking down. Like all of the Foxen reds, they see minimal racking and are bottled without fining or filtration. Tel. (805) 937-4251

Few winemakers in Santa Barbara County understand better than Bill Wathan how to let the terroir of individual vineyards shine, while still providing consumers with a delicious drinking experience. This bottling shows the juicy, ripe flavors one expects from Dijon clones, with flashy notes of raspberries, cherries and currants. It’s balanced in crisp acidity, and there’s a tangy, dry minerality. Drink now–2016. — (11/1/2012) —94