The 1999 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers is a well-made, user-friendly effort of no great distinction. It possesses a medium ruby color, tart berry fruit, and a fresh finish revealing notes of fennel and licorice. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

If that’s not tire rubber on the nose, then what is it? An overabundance of black pepper? Road tar? Whatever—it isn’t appealing, especially at first. But with time the wine sheds its hard exterior and while not exactly rolling out a welcome mat, it does open up. Ultimately some decent black fruit dances with the firm texture, but it’s far from a ballet.——M.S.(2/1/2003)—— 85