Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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As usual, Loewen blended juice from one early and one late picking in the alluvial and slate Klostergarten, then separated the blend into two tanks, of which one was encouraged to cease fermenting with higher residual sugar and become his 2007 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett. Lime, honeysuckle, lilac, and pumpkin make for an effusive and unusual aromatic display. Despite more than 50 grams of residual sugar, this does not taste inordinately sweet, balanced as it is by bright acidity and appropriate as its impression of sweetness is to the floral perfume and honeyed hints of botrytis that are its most striking elements throughout. I don’t see this as having captured the unique combination of lift, delicacy, and finely focused acidity that characterize the best Mosel Kabinetts of the vintage or as being worth cellaring, but it will deliver plenty of pleasure over the next several years. (The feinherb version – which I frequently prefer – was on this occasion a tad inharmonious, at least early-on in its evolution.) Karl-Josef Loewen finds similarities in character between 2007 and 2002, which he illustrated with a now spectacular Thornicher Ritsch Spatlese, a wine I already admired in its youth, but about whose combination of botrytis and slight severity of acids I at that stage expressed slight concern. Still, I was not entirely convinced by the analogy, or by certain of Loewen’s 2007s. Few German growers I know are as sanguine about botrytis in general as he, and it certainly touched most of his wines in 2007, at times awkwardly.Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

Cinnamon and pineapple aromas and flavors are backed by a lush texture and crisp acidity in this broad kabinett. Needs a little time to harmonize. Best from 2009 through 2018.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add