The 1998 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet of leather-tinged red berries, woodbine and a faint touch of seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fully matured with leather and spices occupying the mid-palate. It wobbles a little towards the finish that feels just a little dry and indeed, with aeration it does not improve and becomes a little volatile. This just does not engage on an emotional level; it seems a little static. I would drink this over the next 4-5 years.
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