While I have a slight preference for the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes to the '05, both are insanely good Chateauneufs that deliver just about everything you could want. Made from 100% old-vine Grenache and aged in a combination of new and used barrels, this beauty offers tons of cassis, licorice, spring flowers, chocolate and garrigue on the nose. Full-bodied, ultra-pure, supple and charming, it has more purity and finesse than the '05, but not as much concentration. Drink it anytime over the coming decade or more.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is one of the vintage’s stars. An impressive, deep ruby/purple color is followed by notes of meat juices, roasted herbs, lavender, blackberries, and kirsch. Surprisingly full-bodied and dense for the vintage, it possesses noteworthy purity, good acidity, and sweet tannin. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. As I have indicated over the last few years, this is one of the superb newer producers in Chateauneuf du Pape. Their cellars are in the village of Courthezon, which is located adjacent to the very northeast sector of the appellation. Their 2007s are spectacular wines. This superb Chateauneuf du Pape producer also fashions tasty Cotes du Rhones and Cotes du Rhone-Villages meant to be consumed during their first few years of life.Importers: Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA; tel. 800-331-2829; ABC Fine Wines and Spirits, Orlando, FL; tel. (407) 851-0000, Vinotech LLC, New England, info@vinotechimports.com, and J A O Wine Imports, McLean, VA; tel. (703) 848-2473

This old vine cuvee draws upon 80-year-old Grenache, vinifed in cement and then aged in used barriques. The result is a wine marked by touches of coffee, chocolate and vanilla but dominated by plush layers of cherries and spice. Gentle tannins linger on the finish, but this is delicious now. Drink through 2016.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 94