The star of the show in 2005 is the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. The second vintage for the cuvee, it's made from the oldest Grenache vines of the estate (80- to 100-year-old vines) and is raised in a combination of mostly used barrels. Inky colored, it has sensational notes of plums, blackberries, garrigue, violet and spice-box. These carry to a full-bodied, sexy and straight-up hedonistic wine that has tons of fruit, sweet tannin and a massive finish. This is a ripe, exuberant, blockbuster Grenache that can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade or more.

This is a modern-day classic of Chateauneuf du Pape. The third cuvee is the monumental 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes, which is made from 100% Grenache, and aged in neutral but small oak barrels. Black and saturated blue/purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of incense, flowers, melted licorice, blackberry, and creme de cassis, it comes closest, to my mind, to resembling the Marcoux Vieilles Vignes in its floral aromatics and sumptuous texture. This is stunningly rich wine that will benefit from 2-4 years of cellaring and keep 20-25 years. It’s a brilliant homage to the greatness of old-vine Grenache! If you haven’t figured it out yet, this is one of the up-and coming new superstar producers in Chateauneuf du Pape thanks to the inspired efforts of proprietors Alain and Baptiste Grangeon. The style here seems to be a synthesis of old-line tradition with their emphasis on ancient Grenache vines and a healthy respect for modernist techniques, utilizing newer and smaller oak barrels for the Mourvedre and Syrah components, but aging the Grenache in older wood.Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Amazingly ripe and lush, and hugely atypical. Highly impressive and lovely tannin handling, but not really Chateauneuf.