The Valpantena Valley produces hearty, structured wines that are usually priced more competitively than those from the Classico zone. Bertani’s Villa Arvedi is a case in point. It delivers all the qualities you look for in excellent Amarone: intensity and diversity of aromas such as almond paste, currant berry, Indian spice and deep oak tones. It has polished tannins and a playful note of sour cherry on the finish.——M.L.(10/1/2007)—— 90