Apricot, musk melon, quince, licorice, and candied lemon rind pour from the glass of 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett suggesting a different sort of (perhaps even here, botrytis-tinged) ripeness. While 9% in alcohol – high for sweet Kabinett in this vintage – it evinces a sense of delicacy. Subtly creamy in texture and underlain by distinct wet stone, this is, surprisingly, a tad looser and less focused than its higher-alcohol feinherb counterpart. Hints of black cherry join the quince, licorice, and melon in a finish that’s more soothing than stimulating, but in any event impressively persistent. Young Cecilia Jost is taking charge of the cellar here. In 2008, though, she was tied up with a commitment to harvest in Austria, so Peter and Linde Jost were still calling the shots. Given the ripening tendencies of the Jost’s great, steep, near-monopole Hahn (which is the reason Josts have now planted a site high above it to try to get back to real Kabinett) as well as the lees contact that Peter Jost favors, the 2008 vintage offered a possible antidote to high alcohol, lack of transparency or massiveness that are occasionally exhibited at this address, while permitting a later harvest than Josts have “enjoyed” (assuming you consider that the right word) in some years, lasting until November 10.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300