The 2004 Ermitage Le Meal blanc (266 cases) is total perfection in the bottle. Of course, this is supposedly the vineyard that so impressed Thomas Jefferson when he visited Hermitage in the late 1700s. Boasting an amazing concentrated essence of licorice, minerals, acacia flowers, and buttery honey, the wine is viscous, super-thick, rich, and mind-blowingly intense. Having just had an utterly perfect bottle of DRC 1973 Montrachet, I couldn’t help but think that this wine may well be even younger at a similar age. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Showing some of the more mature notes found in the 2006, the medium-gold colored 2004 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is another incredibly concentrated, thick and unctuous effort that's overflowing with notes of browned butter, marzipan, honeyed gold fruits and smoked earth. Layered, full-bodied and with notable freshness and purity, it's drinking beautifully today but has another two-plus decades of evolution.

Explosively rich and unctuous, this verges on being fat and overblown, then takes a few mincing steps back from the edge. Grilled apricot and peach flavors coat the palate, coming to a climax on the long, oily, fruit-filled finish.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 94