The 2007 Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a vineyard planted in 1980, reveals a greenish hue to its light gold color in addition to a big, sweet kiss of spices, poached pears, baked apples, and tropical fruits. Burgundian-like in texture, with zesty acidity, a medium to full body, and a touch of minerality, this serious Chardonnay should drink well for 3-4 years. This is one of the strongest line-ups I have tasted from Ray Signorello’s winery off the Silverado Trail in southern Napa Valley.Tel. (707) 255-5990; Fax (707) 255-5999

This is an intense wine, and a very young one. It’s tight and minerally, with stone, lees, citrus and sweet oak flavors that leave behind the impression of austerity. You could enjoy it now, but don’t serve too cold, and it will improve and become more complex with up to six years in the bottle.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 92