The 2006 Roma En Chamberlin is also a co-fermented blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Syrah aged in 40% new barriques. A saturated purple color, it emits a powerful perfume of cigar box, raw meat, game, underbrush, licorice, and assorted black and blue fruits. On the palate roasted herbs and dried fruit flavors emerge for additional complexity. Although the wine is rich and satisfying, compared to its siblings it is slightly compact. When it comes to his wines, the otherwise wild and irrepressible Charles Smith is as serious as a heart attack. Native yeast fermentation, foot crushing, spontaneous malolactic fermentations, gentle basket pressing, no fining or filtration are routinely practiced in the cellar. Even more important, Charles Smith knows where to find the great grapes. In a region where blending is still the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. His 2006 collection is as good or better than anything he has done to date, although a tasting of 2007 barrel samples indicate that the best is yet to come. Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com

The En Chamberlin vineyard, farmed biodynamically by Christophe Baron of Cayuse, is the source for this 62% Cabernet Sauvignon/38% Syrah blend. Concentrated and dense, beautifully structured with the herbal flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon set against tart wild berry and hints of citrusy acid.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 95