From another cool vintage, the 2019 Reserve Chardonnay is spicy and taut, the fruit stretched over a gossamer web of tangy acidity. This is not tart, lemon tang, rather the electrifying, juicy, jolt of Valencia orange at the peak of the season. There are notes of pink grapefruit, curry leaf, cut fennel, sea spray, nashi pear and preserved citrus. This is a super wine. It's austere almost—and it's good for it. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.