The 2008 Pinot Noir Zenith Vineyard displays more spice, savory notes, and a mix of red and black fruits in its alluring perfume. Its natural acidity is a bit more elevated giving the wine an attractive lift that is nicely balanced by ripe tannins. Give this suave effort 2-3 years of additional bottle age and drink it from 2012 to 2020. Adelsheim Vineyards’ 2008 Pinot Noirs are uniformly outstanding as they were able to take advantage of the great fruit provided by the vintage. Tel. (503) 538-3652; www.adelsheim.com

Though Adelsheim offers a large assortment of single-vineyard Pinots, this is the first they’ve made from Zenith. It surely won’t be the last. Concentrated, thick black raspberry and black cherry fruit centers a substantial wine, laced with vivid streaks of vanilla, tobacco and spice. The immediate impact of the fruit is amplified by the density on the palate, and the finish, loaded with baking spices, reflects the aging in one-third new French oak barrels. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 93