Domaine Riefle Gewurztraminer Venganges Tardives, Alsace, France

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This is not just a late harvest wine, because there are definite dry flavors of botrytis grapes. While the obvious spice of the Gewurztraminer is subdued by the richness and sweetness, it still has all the fat, opulent character of the grape. It almost certainly needs to age, to bring the powerful botrytis character into balance with the wine’s structure; in 5–6 years, it will be impressive. ——R.V.(2/1/2011)—— 90