Another high point of the range is the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, some 95% of which derives from the clay-rich soils of Butteaux. Opening up to reveal notes of green apple, oyster shell, pear and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a reserved, blocky but nicely balanced profile. This will demand a little patience.