Somontano is not exactly prime real estate among Spanish wine regions, but Blecua, a four-grape blend led by Cabernet Sauvignon, is one of the best wines the region has to offer. Smoke, licorice, rooty cola and lemony oak aromas mix with flavors of blackberry, coffee, cola and roasted meats. It’s a bit choppy and hard now, but time will help it along. A classy wine to drink from 2011 through 2016.——M.S.(8/1/2010)—— 91