There are two cuvees of Merlot, a softer cuvee designed for early consumption, and a more concentrated, larger-scaled Reserve offering. Recent vintages have moved toward less acidification and riper fruit, resulting in wines with significantly more charm, flesh, and succulence. In contrast to the 1992 Merlot, the 1992 Merlot Reserve (which includes 22% Cabernet Franc) exhibits greater richness, a wonderful nose of spicy, earthy, black-cherries, an opulent, full-bodied constitution, and a lush, velvety-textured finish. Its flesh and opulence are a big step up from the very good, but tannic and acidic 1990 and 1991 Merlot Reserves. It should drink well for at least a decade. Mike Havens, working out of a warehouse in the city of Napa, appears to have settled into an admirable pattern, producing richer and richer Merlots, complemented by a fine Syrah, and a Cheval Blanc-inspired proprietary red wine called Bourriquot. There is also a small quantity of Sauvignon Blanc. Havens supplements his Carneros vineyard with purchased grapes.Tel. (707) 257-3924
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