Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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A 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese – like all of Richter’s wines from Himmelreich, originating in the superb and distinctive Goldwingert parcel that is actually high above several of the top vineyards of Bernkastel – smells enticingly of fresh lemon, sea breeze, and black currant. Very ripe but sleek and refined on the palate, with unusually lively acidity for the vintage, it leaves behind impressive traces of lemon, tart berry skin, and wet stone, all bound together by considerable honeyed sweetness. This illustrates the lightness and lift that are hallmarks of so many top-flight 2005s, and I would not hesitate to cellar it for two decades. Also recommended: 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling “Zeppelin” ($16.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Classic ($18.00; 86), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($26.00; 85+?), 2005 Riesling ($18.00; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($25.00; 86+?).Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800