The 2005 Pirouette features winemakers Agustin Huneeus and Philippe Melka. It is composed of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 14% Syrah, 5% Malbec, and 4% Cabernet Franc aged for 22 months in 75% new French oak. Saturated purple in color, it offers aromas of wood smoke, earth notes, spice box, plum, black currant, and blueberry. The wine is seamless upon entry but a bit short in the finish. Perhaps a few years of bottle aging will fill it out. Long Shadows is the brainchild of Alan Shoup, longtime CEO of Chateau Ste-Michelle. It is a consortium of seven different labels, each with its own star winemaker who has a 25% share in the brand. The concept is that each “is dedicated to producing a single Columbia Valley wine representing a ‘best of type’ that reflects the winemaker’s signature style.” For the second straight year, every wine in this portfolio has achieved an outstanding rating. For this, the credit goes to Alan Shoup who put it all together. Tel. (425) 467-9398; www.longshadows.com

The newest vintage of Long Shadows Pirouette is 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 14% Syrah, 5% Malbec and 4% Cab Franc. Combined with the benefits of a stellar vintage, this is substantial, textural and complex. The toasty new oak flavors are more than matched by rich layers of berries, cassis and black cherries. It glides into a seductive midpalate, adding flavors of dusty cocoa, espresso liqueur and toasted grain. It would show quite well against California Meritage-style wines costing twice as much.——P.G.(3/1/2009)—— 92