A lovely estate wine, from Walla Walla fruit, that is a blend of 50% Cab Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and the rest Cab Franc. Wild yeasts add some gamy complexity, and every effort is made to ripen the grapes at sensible alcohol levels. This is a vin de garde, with subtle textures, grip and very well-managed tannins that set up a lingering, resonant finish. ——P.G.(9/1/2004)—— 93