The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a profile of leather, spices, grilled herbs and beef bouillon. This is an opulent style of Brunello, yet faint early signs of oxidation and over ripeness suggest it will be an early drinker. Still, the wine possesses outstanding balance in a generous style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. This a beautiful set of wines from Altesino, a historic producer that in recent years has made noticeable strides to improve quality. Altesino ages its Brunellos in cask, while the wines in the Altesi range are aged in smaller French oak barrels. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620