As I have stated so many times before, Sean Thackrey's limited production gems are among the most original expressions of winemaking in California. The 1988 Orion builds on the great promise exhibited by earlier efforts. Sensationally rich, but soft enough to be drunk now, this full-bodied, raspberry and herb, peppery-scented wine has layers of fruit, excellent extraction, and an inner core of surprising depth. The tannins are fine and soft rather than aggressive and astringent. Drinkable now, although it still seems essentially unevolved and in its infancy, this wine could well last beyond a decade.
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