The 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers offers more roundness and depth when compared to the Virondot, but it does not quite possess the same degree of finesse, while the oak is a tad more conspicuous. That comes through on the palate. It is nicely balanced with well-judged acidity, although that veneer of oak is not quite as well-integrated as Morey’s fellow premier cru 2012s. Yet the finish is appealing, imbued with a sense of confidence and harmony: seductive traces of passion fruit and even guava, so vibrant upon first pouring and then receding over the following hour. This is still another commendable Chassagne that should drink well for another decade. Drink now-2022.
Fernand Morey founded this domaine back in 1919, when he acquired a couple of hectares in Chassagne plus a coaching house slap bang in the middle of the village. He was joined by his son, Marc, in 1944, and subsequently by his daughter and her husband, Bernard Mollard, who presently run the domaine with their daughter, Sabine. During that time, the family’s holdings were expanded so that there are now parcels in Saint Aubin, Puligny and Chassagne itself. The approach here is traditional with prudent use of batonnage, 11 months elevage and no more than 30% new oak. I have to say, I was very impressed by the quality of these wines that displayed precision, finesse and typicite. Most of these notes were written after about one hour of opening, so readers should note that they really come into their own with at least 60 minutes of aeration. Therefore, do not be alarmed if they seem a little “reticent” at first and do not be afraid of a short decant. I look forward to tasting the entire range chez Morey in the future.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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