Both the 1995 Chablis Bel Air and Chablis La Rosette are made in a pure, crisp, fresh style that offers medium body, good fruit, and no evidence of wood. They are clean, pure examples of Chablis that should drink well for 2-3 years.The one thing that stands out in the wines reviewed in this segment is their purity, freshness, and focus. Each wine, whether it is the Bourgogne Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, or Chablis, possesses a distinctive minerality, elegance, and sense of balance. They are not overblown, big wines, nor are they cunningly wooded to seduce tasters. What they offer are gobs of fresh, lively fruit and character.North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and (800) 266-6585; fax (510) 848-0841