2005 was a great vintage for Bierzo, and even if at that time we were living the height of excess in many wines, it’s great to see that they were not all the same. The 2005 Pagos de Posada is produced from 80- to 90-year-old Mencia with yields of less than one kilo per plant. This is a very concentrated wine, with an extended maceration (50-to-60 days!), was aged for 15-18 months in French oak, but manages to keep both balance and freshness. Yes, this is one of those rara avis. The nose combines notes of dark fruit with tobacco, Mediterranean herbs and spices, some meaty notes and a touch of leather. The palate is full-bodied and shows high dry-extract, in a wine that cries for powerful food, like the lovely stewed meat dishes that you find in Bierzo. You can drink it now, but it will keep well. Drink 2013-2020.
The official name of Tilenus is Bodegas Estefania, but everybody knows them by their brand name. The winery is owned by the Frias family, a name traditionally linked with the dairy business, and they were smart enough to hire Raul Perez as technical director for the winery. They own 40 hectares of vineyards, mostly around the villages of Pieros and Valtuille at around 800 meters altitude. The average age of their vineyards is very old, with some plots exceeding 100 years of age. They are one of the few producers in Bierzo offering more mature vintages; as you can see in this report they are still selling wines from 2004, 2005 and 2006.
Imported by Classic Wines, Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 975-2522
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