Domaine Barmes-Buecher Riesling Rosenberg, Alsace, France

巴爾梅布徹羅森伯格雷司令干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：3347

You could imagine Barmes’ 2007 Riesling Rosenberg as combining the generous fruit and tactile interest (if slight rusticity) of the corresponding Herrenweg with the saliva-inducing, whip-wielding insistence of the Clos Sand. Pear and quince on the nose display a hint of botrytis spice, but on the palpably dense yet buoyant palate the fruit is crisp-edged, and bright citrus combines with salt, alkali, and chalk for a long, invigorating finish. This should be compelling to follow over the next 8-10 years, if not for longer. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29