The 2010 Ekam (which means “Unity of God’s”) is a pure Riesling grown at 900 to 1,000 metres altitude, pressed direct and fermented in stainless steel. It contains a little noble rot. It offers a very taut, granitic nose that is very minimalist with fine delineation. The palate is well-balanced with superb poise and delineation, crisp acidity (pH 2.8) with notes of green apple, a hint of fresh apricot and lemon zest. It is reminiscent of a Mosel Riesling with its focus and minerality. This is an outstanding Riesling that should be served blind in a Mosel line-up. Drink now-2016+.
It was a long, long drive to visit Castell d’Encus, located in the foothills of the Pyrenees at almost 1,000 metres altitude at the end of a never-ending winding lane that should be sign-posted “middle of nowhere.” It was 10:45 p.m. when we finally arrived in the pitch black. Winemaker, former director of Torres and partner in Priorat’s “Ferrer-Bobet,” Raul Bobet came to greet me. It had been a long day. I was knackered. My palate was asking where the hell dinner had gone? Fortunately, my palate was about to taste a portfolio of extremely accomplished, delicious, intellectually satisfying wines that formed one of the highlights of my trip. This is an example of extreme, obsessive winemaking, Raul often asking himself what the hell he was doing. What inspired him was the chance discovery of “rock fermenters.” These are medieval vessels carved into the stone that must have been used by the local monks. They were using gravity long before the Bordelais were crowing about it. Raul has trialled these fermenters and is now beginning to ferment his entire portfolio in them. It gives a new meaning to the word: “minerality.” (Check the winery’s website to see the fermenters: www.encuseng.weebly.com)
Importers: VINoVI&Co, 401 West Marshall Avenue, Ferndale, MI 48220 and United Cellars, 2248 NW 82nd Avenue, Doral, FL 33122
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