The 1999 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Salarco, outstanding in 1991 and 1993, is potent. A brooding blackish garnet, its fresh and expanding aromas of plums, red currants, rhubarb, and light oak spices are followed by rich, concentrated flavors of sweet red fruit, licorice, and tar, classy tannins, and fine shape as well as definition. While deceptively approachable, patience will be repaid. Drink between 2006 and 2015. Owned by the large Fazi-Battaglia house of the Marches, Fassati returned to life after a period of hibernation in the early 1990s thanks to the fundamental input supplied by consulting winemaker Franco Bernabei. The wines continue to show his hand and philosophy. Firm and tannic with a bracing acidity when young, they are built to evolve slowly and stay the course. Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.