Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Corps de Garde

點擊次數(shù)：2830

Bottled last January, the Goisot 2008 Cotes d’Auxerre Corps de Garde exhibits a nutty depth as well as textural richness – both reinforced by the effect of its stay in barrel – along with citrus oils, salt, mint, iodine, and white pepper. But of bitterness or diminution of minerality, clarity, or sheer juiciness – limitations that I have often found in past renditions of this cuvee – I find no trace here. There is plenty of positive pungency and invigoration to the wine’s gripping, energetic finish, and this estimable Auxerre Chardonnay ought to be worth following for at least 4-5 years, not to mention capable of challenging any generic Chablis whatsoever. This year’s blend, incidentally, comprises nearly 40% each selected barrels of Gueule de Loup and Biaumont, with the rest originating in Gondonne and a tiny portion from one other parcel. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040