I tasted six dry Tokay-Pinot Gris offerings from Zind-Humbrecht and one Vendange Tardive. As the enthusiastic notes that follow reveal, it is a toss up as to whether Riesling or Pinot Gris was the more successful varietal in 1995. For followers of the ZH Tokay-Pinot Gris Vieille Vigne the good news is that the 1995's quality is spectacular; the bad news is that the price is now at the level of top premier cru white Burgundies. The price is not unjustified in view of the quality, but it is a blow to the sensitivities of those of us who remember buying this wine for $16-$20 a bottle a decade ago. The 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Vieille Vigne (made from a vineyard planted in 1946) exhibits an explosive nose of honeyed, buttery popcorn, incense, and jammy fruit aromas. This off-dry, spectacularly concentrated, slightly botrytized wine is loaded with fruit, has an unctuous texture, and a massive, thick finish oozing with glycerin, fruit, and alcohol. This wine must tip the scales as 14.5% alcohol. I would opt for drinking it over the next decade. The Zind-Humbrecht 1995s possess approximately 10% higher acidity than the crisp, high acid 1994s, largely because September was a very cool month. There was no need to chaptalize any of the ZH wines, and extremely long fermentations resulted in high alcohol.The reviews in this segment are from a memorable tasting held in April, 1997.Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524