This wine offers a touch of elegance in a region where it’s in short supply. The nose is on the subtle side, but not lacking in complexity, with layers of coffee, vanilla, tar and chocolate-covered cherries. On the palate, raspberry and cherry fruit is encased in finely polished tannins that set the stage for a long, juicy finish. Drink or hold several years for even more complexity.——W.E.(12/31/2009)—— 88