The Bordeaux-styled reds begin with the 2006 Camaspelo. It is made up of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. The already complex perfume reveals mineral, graphite, creme de cassis, and black cherry. In the mouth it offers a lovely combination of power and elegance, along with very ripe tannins, leading to a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Give it 3-4 years of additional cellaring and drink it through 2021.
Christophe Baron remains in fine form. His estate, just on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, consists of five small but distinct vineyards (41 acres in total – with more on the way). Syrah and the Bordeaux varietals are the principal focus but some of the finest parcels of Tempranillo, Viognier, and Grenache grown in the USA are on this estate. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and much of the estate is planted on rootstock to prepare for the day when phylloxera works its way through Walla Walla. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The one most visible change since last year’s visit is that some of the plowing is now done by horse power. It was quite a sight to see a giant plow horse take tiny steps to turn from one row into the next. Cayuse is no longer a secret and it may be America’s toughest mailing list to crack (consider the prices compared to some of the other cult collectibles) but do whatever it takes to get your hands on a few of these gems.
Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayusevineyards.com
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