Inky purple. Smoky dark berry, cassis and cured meat aromas are complicated by oak spices and candied licorice. Broad and fleshy, offering chewy dark berry flavors and a liqueur-like sweetness. Tannins build and carry through a long, slightly bitter finish. Brooding stuff-in need of a decanting, or patience.

Gemtree’s Obsidian Shiraz ratchets up the intensity from its usual offerings, adding structure and richness to straight-ahead aromas and flavors of cherries, coffee and vanilla. The wood sticks out a little on the finish, so give it another year or two in the bottle, then drink it over the next 10.——J.C.(4/1/2009)—— 90