The 2001 Fobiano is one of Umbria’s better Bordeaux blends and this vintage is an unambiguous success. Dark in color with a sweet, vanilla and incense-laced black currant nose, its rich extract and polished, supple structure reveal the major winemaking talent that went into its execution. Drink: 2005-2018. La Carraia is a sizeable operation near Orvieto, over 250 acres of vineyards, and the brothers Cotarella, Renzo and Riccardo, are partners in the winery as well as in charge of the vineyards and cellars. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Fully oaked, with red fruit as well as a strong hint of canned pea or green bean. Simple cherry, plum and raspberry flavors set up a snappy, acidic finish. Seems a touch backward as it condenses and crystallizes on the finish. Imported by Winebow. ——M.S.(7/1/2005)—— 84