The 2003 Altano has, I think, sweeter fruit than the 2004, although the key difference between the 2004 version of this wine, reviewed here, and this bottling may be the year in the cellar. The 2004 is a little fresher with some modest tannins, the 2003 a little brighter, showing a little riper, sweeter and more mature. This still showed the ability to improve with a little air. Like the 2004, this, too, is something you can serve at a party with wine geeks and normal folks, and everyone will be willing to drink it. A bit simple? Yes. For $6, it is hard to do much better. It is real wine for so-so wine prices. It fades quickly with air and is quite short. Drink now-2007. Symington is, of course, one of the fabled names in the Douro, owning Warres, Dow’s, Graham’s and other famous Port houses. Their dry wines seem to be coming along fine, too, particularly their partnership with Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel fame (separately listed under Prats & Symington). The basic Altano wines are a super deal, and the Vale do Bomfim is one of the best buys in this report. The Symington partnership with Joao van Zeller at Quinta de Roriz (also listed separately) is very successful as well. As I look over my notes, few, if any, wineries were providing more value for the money than the Symingtons, from their own estates and their various partnerships, although they certainly have some pricey upper level bottlings as well.Importer for the Altano wines: Vineyard Brands. Importer for Vale do Bomfim: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 554-9920

Altano, a table-wine project of the Symington family, famous for their various Port houses (among them, Dow’s, Graham’s and Warre’s), takes a two-pronged approach to marketing. A pricier Reserva offers greater richness and texture along with hints of oak, but while the entry-level Altano lacks the rich texture and density, it offers good value. Cherries and sappy green herb notes combine in a lightweight, easy quaffer that folds in dark chocolate and black tea notes on the finish.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 84