Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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The Christoffel 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese features candied citrus, herbal lozenge, and nougat in an overtly sweet, expansively rich, oily textured display. Seamless and long, it’s still apt to strike many tasters – it did me – as being overly-sweet. It should hold up well for the better part of two decades, and if you wait 10-12 years the sweetness will have backed off considerably, but after the 2008, it’s a slightly disappointing. I have over the years bought many of those Christoffel wines that I deemed already best-balanced in their youth; yet, despite that, I seldom drink one within its first decade. I had to forego Hans-Leo Christoffel’s droll wit this year and (no offense meant to him by this remark of course!) taste with proprietor Robert Eymael.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300